Trobriand Islands – A unique culture
A 450km cluster of low-lying coral atolls off the eastern
coast of Papua New Guinea (PNG), but literally a world away from
anything you’ve ever known are the Trobriand Islands. Consisting of four
main islands, Kiriwina, Kaileuna, Vakuta and Kitava, the Trobriands
remain one of the most culturally intact places in the world. As a
visitor to the Islands you are bound to find it one of the most
fascinating cultures as well.
The majority of the indigenous inhabitants call Kiriwina home. The
Trobrianders or the Trobes as they are known locally inherited their
name from Denis de Trobriand, the first lieutenant on D’Entrecasteaux’s
expedition, the first European visitors to the Islands in 1793. Often
referred to as the ‘Islands of love’, the people with their distinct
Polynesian appearance are, to put it simply, beautiful. With a social
structure based on strict matrilineal clans that control land and
resources, there is no denying that it’s the females and their beliefs
that are what draws so much curiosity about this culture. From as early
as 13 and 14 year of age, children are encouraged to pursue potential
partners and to change them frequently. This is not just a practice left
to men, but women are equally as assertive in perusing or denying
potential partners. The Islanders idyllic laid back culture could
perhaps be attributed to their liberal views and encouragement of
premarital sex. In fact, it is encouraged so much so that every village
is the proud owner of a special hut known as a ‘bukumatula’ where
unmarried teenagers retreat to make love.
When it comes to marriage, a relaxed but specific approach is taken.
Before a Trobriand couple decide to marry, they will, not unlike many
Western cultures, spend much time together. However, there is no
expensive, fancy wedding, but rather a gift is offered and accepted by
the parents of the prospective girl and rather than the girl leaving the
boy’s house before sunrise after a night together, she stays. In the
morning, the parents of the girl will bring a feast of cooked yams and
when the couple eat together, the marriage is consummated. Over the
course of the next year, the married couple will continue to eat
together before returning to eating separately. Despite a widespread
knowledge of reproduction and modern medicine, the traditional belief
surrounding pregnancy remarkably still holds true to most Trobriand
Islanders. It is believed that in order to fall pregnant an ancestral
spirit known as a ‘Baloma’ must enter the woman’s body, while the man’s
job is to simply open the woman up to pregnancy. Once the baby is born,
the mother’s brother presents a harvest of yams to his sister to ensure
that the baby will be fed from food from its own matrilineage.
Yams play a significant role in the culture of the Trobriand Islands.
Used predominantly as currency, they signify wealth and power. In all
of the Trobriand major life events, birth, marriage, death and even
divorce, yams are the common denominator. Not surprisingly, the yam is
also the staple food. The illustrious yam has certainly been placed on a
pedestal, high above any other vegetable grown on the island. So much
so, that every year from June to August the Milamala Yam harvest
festival is held. The festival begins with a parade of men carrying the
newly harvested yams from the garden storage hut to the village yam
houses. While this takes place the women go on ahead and festively dance
and sing. During the festival, traditional rites are observed and
festival goers don their best traditional attire.
Although culturally significant, it’s not all about marriage and yams
on this peace-loving Island and visitors will find much to keep them
occupied. One such attraction is Kalopa Cave at the northern tip of
Kiriwina, about 1 1/2 hours walk from Kaibola Village. Here you will
find several deep limestone caves which are home to antiquities and
skeletal remains. Omarakana is another place worth noting as this is
where the island’s supreme Chief resides. About halfway between Losuia
and Kaibola you will find the Chief’s residence – a large intricately
painted yam house on stilts. He is often found sitting under his house
surrounded by his clansman. His role includes reigning over the island’s
oral and magic traditions as well as the all-important yam festival.
While it is possible to pay the Chief a visit, it’s culturally
appropriate to keep your head lower than his and a small gift certainly
won’t go astray. Trobriand Islands are well known for their exquisite carvings
made from local timbers including the much sought after ebony. There
are also war relics, stretches of white sandy beaches and coral filled
offshore islands to keep you busy during your stay on the Islands.
Any place where the locals settle minor conflicts with a good game of
unisex cricket and continue to live an idyllic traditional lifestyle
has our vote. One way to experience the Islands is aboard a Cruise Liner such as P&O Cruises which sail regularly from Australia. At Paga Hill
we believe the Trobriand Islands to be one of the most charming places
in PNG in which to enjoy the fun-loving and peaceful culture of Milne
Bay Province.
Paga Hill Estate is a world class master planned estate in the heart
of Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea. The waterfront site is the first
comprehensively planned multi-use development in Papua New Guinea to be
enjoyed by both residents and visitors alike. The all inclusive
development will include vibrant public spaces and waterfront promenade,
luxury hotels, residential apartments, restaurants, retail, commercial
space, a National Cultural Centre, restoration of WWII relics, marina
precinct and an international cruise liner terminal.
Visit Paga Hill Estate for more information including the latest artistic impressions of the development.